There’s something special about a bush weekend in South Africa. No matter where you go or how you go. From self-drives in Kruger, super luxe lodges in Sabi Sand to tented camps in Marakele. All have something special to offer.
Nothing fills me with quite as much excitement as the prospect of game drives, red wine, smokey fires, boma dinners and samp with beans. It’s a time when I feel truly connected to this country, I call home. South Africa.
To be honest I’ve spent more time than I’d like to admit browsing the &Beyond website. Their list of incredible lodges around the world are what bucket lists are made of. So when the opportunity arose to book a weekend away; Phinda Private Game Reserve was on my radar.
Phinda Game Reserve is located in the Kwa-Zulu Natal province of South Africa and encompasses nearly 30 000 hectares of diverse protected landscape. There are six &Beyond lodges within the reserve to choose from and given my extensive website crushing, all of them look pretty spectacular.
Phinda Forest Lodge set amongst a canopy of trees with its secluded rooms dotted around the forest looked like the perfect escape. Since most of my bush adventures within South Africa have been around the Kruger area, a trip to the Phinda was something new.
OUR TRIP TO PHINDA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE SOUTH AFRICA
We drove to Phinda from Johannesburg, and let me just get it out there… its far. Almost too far for a three-night stay and since we travelled over a long weekend the journey took about 8 hours.
Since I know I’ll one day be returning to Phinda maybe a longer stay combing different lodges is the best way to plan this trip if driving 538kms from Johannesburg. Alternatively, there are flights available via Airlink to Phinda but due to the year that is 2020, this wasn’t an option for us!
After a Wimpy breakfast and a couple of naps our party of four arrived at Phinda Forest Lodge. We were just in time for a quick lunch and the game drive. As we pulled up to the lodge and were welcomed by a collage of the waving hands. The hands belonging to the masked staff members that would be looking after us during our stay. We met our ranger, tracker and butler who combined made this a truly unforgettable break.
WHAT IS IT LIKE TRAVELLING LOCALLY WITHIN SOUTH AFRICA DURING COVID
Travelling during times of covid is somewhat unsettling but as soon as we arrived, we were briefed on the protocols that the lodge had emplaced. These guidelines were to keep its guests as well as its staff members safe. During our 3 night stay not once did I see any member of staff without a mask. And this is a triumph within itself.
The rooms at Phinda Forest Lodge are something special. Glass walls that open up into the forest set this lodge apart from anything else I have experienced.
THE BEST PART OF ANY BUSH WEEKEND IS THE ALL DAY FOOD AND THE GAME DRIVES
Lunch was served on our verandah, spiced lamb chops, braaied mielies and potato wedges for the carnivore and a feta, pesto and tomato tart for the veggie. Happy tummies and a change of clothes meant we were ready for the game drive.
Before we set off on our first drive we sat out on the lodge’s main deck with a cup of tea and were briefed by our ranger on what could be expected over the next three days. He handed us the most beautiful &Beyond guide books with illustrations and information about the animals we could hope to see as well as the seven ecosystems we would drive through.
We were also asked what we hoped to experience during the 6 game drives that lay ahead of us. There were some expected answers to this question. A leopard, a cheetah, and something exciting. Not to spoil the reading but each of those were actually ticked off!
Our game drive started with us heading off in search of lions, and lions we saw. A pride of lions sprawled across the milky white sand of this special habitat. Lazy and hiding behind one too many thorn trees we went on to find the next animals to tick off in our booklets.
We saw a lone male elephant slowly making his way up the road and then came to an open grassland where cheetahs had been found. We pulled up to two male cheetahs resting on a mound. They were alert and looking in different directions trying to keep each other safe.
The sighing itself was magical enough but to top it off there were buffalo in the background and rhinos to our left. Oh, and the sun was setting. Picturesque enough?
SUNSETS IN SOUTH AFRICA – GNTS INCLUDED
Sunset drinks and snacks are always a highlight on afternoon game drives. A chance to chat about what was seen and also to get to know the ranger and guide a little better, with a gnt in one hand and a handful of corn kernels in the other.
Most lodges offer biltong and dried mango but Phinda had something extra on the menu. Homemade falafels that actually tasted more like vetkoek (umm upgraded falafels, yes please!). And these weren’t served cold, oh no, they were warmed up on a tiny skottle.
Phinda Forest Lodge definitely has a way of making everything a little more special.
We slowly made our way back to the lodge, spotted a hyena and a tiny owl just sitting pretty! On arrival back at the lodge we were welcomed with a boma dinner. A true highlight in any bush trip in South Africa.
Red wine, a large crackling fire, the smell of burning wood and braai meat. Basically all the smells and feels you’d want from a traditional boma dinner in South Africa.
There was soup and homemade bread to start and an I-am-never-going-home buffet of braai delights. Fire roasted butternut with garlic sauce, creamy curried lentils, samp and beans, roasted potatoes, boerewors skewers and braaied lamb. An accomplishment regardless of your dietary requirements.
STRONG COFFEE AND 5AM WAKE UPS
I suffer from you-can’t-miss-a-drive mentality. So regardless of how hard 5am wake up calls can be. I never miss a drive! Since we saw 4 out the 5 Big Five already, we were keen to see what this diverse and rare landscape had to offer.
We began the morning learning about the rare sand forest and how spectacular it actually is. Our ranger was incredible at explaining the uniqueness of this ecosystem and instilling an appreciation for it amongst everyone.
Thanks to this drive I can now name three trees (in total, so proud). The Torchwood Greenthorn, the False Tamboti and the Lebombo Wattle. The three tress that make up the spectacular canopy of this rare sand forest found in South Africa.
This quiet educational drive was followed by a sensational breakfast. A beautifully laid out spread of seasonal fruits; yellow and green kiwis, grapes, papayas and fresh citrus. A selection of jars filled with coconut chia seed pudding, bircher muesli, and jams. Fresh bakes which changed daily from Nutella babkas to paper thin apple streusels. Cold meats, cheeses and homemade breads. Glass bottles of freshly squeezed juices and of course champagne, I mean why not!
There was also a menu filled with breakfast options from creamy scrambled eggs with guacamole to hash browns topped with poached eggs. Basically, Phinda Forest Lodge is a place where breakfast dreams come true!
WHAT DO THE DAYS BEHOLD IN PHINDA SOUTH AFRICA
Bush breaks offer exactly what you’re looking for and Phinda Forest Lodge gives you all the options. You could take it easy during the day, or get active with bush walks, cultural experiences or if you’re done ticking off your land animals what about an ocean safari?
Yes, after breakfast there are so many activities available but bush breaks mean exactly that to me; a break. So, between drives my preferred activities include lazy afternoons at the pool, opening all the glass doors of my room to best listen to the birds in the forest while reading a book, playing with my camera or sipping a glass of cold Sauvignon Blanc.
Plus resting during the day means you’re all ready for the next time you need to grab your camera bag and haul yourself onto the open landi.
The subsequent drives at Phinda Private Game Reserve South Africa were a mix of tranquility taking in the different ecosystems and utter exhilaration. From quietly learning about their pangolin protection program to watching a lioness slowly stalk and attack a cheetah (yes this did happen and yes, I did cry) to seeing a male and female leopard courting under the stars.
There were zebras and inyalas, giraffes chewing on bones, glimpses of large spotted genets, baby hippos and crocodiles. Fish eagles hovering over barbels, kori bustards, purple crested turacos and African goshawks. There were forests, mountains, pans and woodlands. There was so much, so much of everything.
Every moment of every drive had something to offer.
WITH A GIFT AND A CUSTOMARY COVID ELBOW TAP IT WAS TIME TO SAY GOODBYE
All to soon the 3 nights were over and we were being waved off by the same wonderful people that welcomed us only a few days earlier.
I left Phinda with a lot more than I arrived with. A new interest in trees, a couple more bird names to throw around, a better understanding of how to photograph wildlife thanks to our guide, a new appreciation for Amarula in your morning coffee and most of all a definite desire to come back and explore this piece of South Africa a little more.
After all I didn’t spot their rare Suni antelope so, best I go back and try again.
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